A flange quilt binding is one of my favorite ways to bind a quilt. This double-fold quilt binding has an additional feature of a piping (flange) of fabric which can add additional color or pattern to your finished quilt. This binding for a quilt requires no hand sewing!
I favor this binding because it is quick and easy to attach to a quilt with your sewing machine. Since it's a double-fold binding, it's also durable. I would probably never finish a quilt if I had to hand sew the binding on!
We have several other quilt binding tutorials, so before you pick one for your new quilt, be sure to review them all. The links to the other binding methods are near the end of this tutorial.
Click the link below to watch a video tutorial on this flange binding method or keep reading for a photo tutorial.
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WHAT YOU NEED:
- Finished Quilt Top, layered and quilted
- Binding Fabric
- Flange Fabric
- Sewing Machine
- Rotary Cutter, mat & ruler
INSTRUCTIONS For a flange quilt binding
Step 1: Cut Strips for binding
Using your rotary cutter, mat and rulers cut 1-1/2" strips from your binding fabric. The binding fabric is the one that wraps around from the back to the front of the quilt. The green leaf fabric below will be my binding fabric.
From the flange fabric, cut 1-3/4" strips. The flange fabric will show on the front of your quilt as small piping or flange. The yellow spotted fabric below will be the flange fabric.
The number of strips of fabric needed will depend on the size of your quilt and the width of the fabric.
Use our binding calculator to figure out the number of strips to cut for your quilt. For the flange binding, you will use the calculator twice. For the first time, enter 1-1/2" for the Width of the Binding Strip. Then use it again for the 1-3/4" width of the binding strip. The calculator will tell you how many strips of each fabric to cut and the amount of fabric you need.
If you prefer to calculate the length of strips needed yourself, measure the length and width of your quilt and multiply by 2. Then add about 24" extra which will account for the corners and the ending where the binding is joined together.
(Width Of Quilt x Length of Quilt) x 2 + 24 = Inches of Finished Quilt Binding
You will also need extra for each join of the strips. I usually will cut one more strip than I think I will need if the calculations are close. It's always better to have extra binding than to get around your whole quilt and run out before the end!
Step 2: Join Binding Strips Together
When making binding for a quilt, the strips must be joined into a continuous binding strip long enough to go around the entire quilt. To learn how to join the strips together, visit our tutorial How to Join Quilt Binding Strips for step-by-step instructions.
For the flange binding, join the fabrics together into two long strips. The strips are will be sewn together in our next step. The photo below shows the two strips with all of the sections joined together.
Once you have the strips, make sure you have enough binding by laying it along the edge of your quilt all the way around. I don't trust my calculations and want a visual that the binding is long enough. It's much easier to add another strip now if needed.
There should be at least 10" of extra binding after you wrap it around the quilt to account for the corners and joining at the ending. If when you get around, there is very little left, add another strip to be on the safe side.
Step 3: Trim quilt
Before adding the binding, your quilt top should have been layered with the batting and backing. The quilt layers should also be quilted together. If you do not have a prepared quilt, go back to our tutorial on Preparing your Quilt for Quilting.
Before adding the binding, the quilt top will need to be trimmed to straighten out the sides and to remove the excess backing and batting.
To trim your quilt, lay it on your rotary cutting mat with the ruler aligned with the edge of your quilt top as shown above. Your quilt top may not be completely straight, so lay the ruler across in a way that will straighten the edge. Try not to cut off too much of the blocks.
Use your rotary cutter to trim the quilt all the way around.
Step 4: Sew Flange & Binding Together
Take your flange and binding strips and place them with right sides together aligning the long edges. Sew them together along the long edge with a 1/4" seam allowance.
Below is a photo of the flange and binding strips sewn together.
Step 5: Create a double-Fold binding
At your ironing board, iron the strips pressing the seam towards the binding side.
Then fold the strip with WRONG sides together aligning the long raw edge and press. When aligning the raw edge, you will see that the flange peeks out from the binding fabric as shown below.
Step 6: Sew the binding to the quilt back
At your sewing machine, have your quilt with the back facing up. I usually start attaching my binding on one of the sides of the quilt about 2/3 of the way down the side. Starting on the side helps to keep it from being as noticeable.
If you start near the center of the top of your quilt, it may catch the eye of the viewer more than if it's on the side.
Lay your folded binding with the binding side facing down along the edge of your quilt. Line up the raw edges of the quilt and binding. Start sewing and leave a 4" - 5" tail of fabric free as shown below. This will be used to join the fabric at the end. If any of this is confusing, please watch the video tutorial or you can check our other binding tutorial.
Start stitching with a 1/4" seam allowance along the side of the quilt and stop 1/4" from the corner. My 1/4" foot is marked on the foot to show where 1/4" from the end is, so it makes it easy.
Stop with your needle down, pivot 45 degrees towards the corner, and then stitch into the corner. Take the quilt out from the sewing machine.
The photo below is from another tutorial, but the stitching should look like the photo below.
Next, fold the mitered corner. Fold the fabric up so that the fold is at a 45-degree angle into the corner as shown below. With the stitching into the corner, the angle folds easily.
Then fold the fabric down so the folded edge lines up with the side of the quilt as shown below. The raw edge of the binding will be along the next edge of the quilt. The 45-degree fold is still underneath in the folds.
Place it back under the presser foot but start stitching 1/4" from the leading edge. Don't forget to back-tack at the beginning and continue sewing down the next side of the quilt.
The photo below shows the stitching starting 1/4" from the edge.
Continue sewing around with the same process on each of the other 3 corners. When you come back to the starting point, stop 2" - 3" from the beginning. Remember you have that leading tail and don't sew over it.
Take the project out of the sewing machine and match up the two tails, putting them together. Place a pin where the tails meet as shown below.
Sew a line where the pin is, removing the pin before sewing. This joins the two ends of the binding together.
Trim the ends of the binding at an angle as shown in the photo below.
Press the seam open and then finish sewing the binding to the back from where you stopped.
The binding is now attached to the back.
Step 7: Finish sewing the quilt binding
Thread your sewing machine bobbin with thread that matches the back of your quilt. The top thread should match the flange fabric colors. The top and bobbin thread do not have to be the same color. Pick colors that will blend into your front/back fabrics.
The quilt front should be facing you. Start to wrap the binding around to the front and push out the corners.
If you want to, use quilt binding clips or pins to hold the binding in place. I love using quilt binding clips for this purpose as they are easy to use and hold bindings in place perfectly.
Start where the binding was joined together, fold under the corners of the fabric as shown below. This keeps the fabric from sticking out when you wrap it around and sew. Wrap this around to the front and start sewing just before this join.
For this flange binding, wrap the binding around far enough so your bobbin thread will be on the quilt back. The bobbin thread stitches shouldn't be on the binding.
Use the stitch-in-the-ditch technique to sew the binding down. This technique is where you sew straight stitches just beside the seam. The stitches will be on the flange fabric as shown below. Stitch carefully so your stitches stay on the flange fabric.
Sew slowly and carefully over the join area to be sure the ends are tucked in and there is a minimal bump.
Stop a couple of inches before the corner. This will give you room to work and to fold the mitered corner. If you prefer, fold the mitered corners and hold them in place with quilting clips before starting to sew the binding.
To fold the mitered corner, start by wrapping the fabric on the next side into place. Then use your finger to push the extra fabric into the corner as shown below.
Then fold down the corner and make adjustments until it looks like a nice mitered corner. Be sure to match up the flange fabrics. See the photo below for an example.
Continue stitching into the corner until the end of the flange fabric.
With the needle in the down position, carefully turn your quilt 90 degrees. Continue stitching down the next side of the quilt wrapping the binding in place as you go.
Continue stitching around the quilt in the same way until the binding is complete. Don't forget to back tack at the end.
Your quilt is complete! But don't forget to add a quilt label to the back of your quilt. Click the link to learn why and how to label your quilt.
We hope you enjoyed this Learn to Quilt Tutorial series and have successfully made your first quilt! If you missed any of the other tutorials in this series, they are all available below.
LEARN TO QUILT SERIES
Your first quilt is finished. YEAH!
OTHER QUILTING TECHNIQUES
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comments or our Contact Us page. We respond to questions in e-mails and YouTube comments regularly.
Other binding tutorials you may be interested in are below.