How to Sew a Lettuce Hem with a Serger (Lettuce Edging)

Add a decorative hem to a garment with a lettuce hem.  A lettuce edge hem is narrow with a feminine ruffled edge.  This lettuce hem is commonly seen on little girls' clothing on the sleeves or hem.

This is a popular hem finish on knit clothing and features a ruffled edge.  A lettuce edge hem must be sewn on stretchy fabric like a knit.  As the hem is sewn, the fabric is stretched, making the wavy edge.

This tutorial teaches how to sew a lettuce edge hem with a serger or overlocker sewing machine.  If you are looking for a tutorial for a lettuce edge hem with a traditional sewing machine, click the link for our tutorial.

Learn more about the lettuce edge hem by watching our video through the link below or keep reading this article.

WHAT YOU NEED to sew a lettuce hem with a serger

• Serger
• Fabric to Hem
• Serger Thread and/or Serger Stretch Thread

INSTRUCTIONS for sewing a lettuce hem using a serger or overlocker

This tutorial will show the settings for serging a lettuce hem with normal serger thread and stretch thread. The settings for stretch thread are a little different than the regular thread.

For this demonstration, I am using contrasting threads so that they can be seen easily.  Select a color thread that coordinates with your fabric when you stitch a lettuce hem.

The lettuce hem is a variation on the rolled hem stitch.  The rolled hem stitch finishes the edge by rolling or turning the raw edge under and then a small overlock stitch finishes the edge.

To begin, set up the serger machine for stitching a rolled hem stitch. I have a Bernina L450 overlocker machine, so the settings will work for the L450 or L460 machine. 

If you have a different brand overlocker machine, it should have similar settings and adjustments, but you may need to test the settings and make adjustments.

How to Serge a 3-Thread Lettuce Hem using Normal  Serger Thread

Step 1: Setup the Serger to sew a Rolled Hem with serger thread

Since this is a three-thread rolled hem stitch, remove the left needle and tighten the screw.

The serger thread tension needs to be adjusted for the rolled hem stitch.  Set the following tension when using standard serger thread (see settings for using stretch thread in next section).

• Lower looper (red) – turn to 6, which is looser than normal
• Upper looper (blue) – turn to 3, which is tighter than normal
• Right needle (green) – set to 4, which is the normal setting

Set the serger stitch length to 1.

Set the cutting width to 5 or the narrowest cutting width.

Retract the rolled hem selection lever by pulling it towards you.  The finger is retracted and this is what causes the fabric to roll over while stitching.  The overlock stitches usually form over the finger.

The rolled hem shows on a finished garment, so select the thread color you would like to see on the finished garment.  Sometimes, the thread color will match the fabric color or maybe even contrast the fabric color.

NOTE: For this tutorial, a contrasting thread is used so the stitches can be seen.  

Step 3: Prepare the fabric for Stitching the lettuce hem 

This lettuce hem must be sewn on stretchy fabrics like a knit.  The stretch in the fabric is what makes the ruffle when it’s sewn. The more stretchy the fabric, the more ruffles will appear.

The fabric should be prepared for sewing the lettuce hem.  Prepare the fabric per your pattern instructions, but plan to trim about 1/4" off of the fabric as the lettuce hem is sewn.  This ensures a clean edge is sewn and overlocked and bits of thread won't stick out.

Step 4: Sew the lettuce hem

Stitch along the edge, trimming about 1/4" from the edge of the fabric.   This cleans the edge up and ensures no bits of thread will stick out when the lettuce hem is stitched.

As you are stitching, stretch the fabric from both the front and the back.  The more you stretch, the more wavy the finished lettuce hem will be.

Start by pulling the fabric from the front so it stretches.  As the fabric comes out of the back of the machine, start pulling from the back also.

Here is the finished lettuce hem.  The fabric has a wave in it after stitching the lettuce hem and the overlock stitch covers the edge nicely.

The short stitches nicely wrap and finish the edge of the fabric, making a pretty lettuce hem.

How to Serge a 3-Thread Lettuce Hem with Stretch Thread

What is Stretch Thread?

Maxi-Lock Stretch thread is a textured nylon thread that is soft like yarn.  It is used to sew stretchy fabrics like swimwear or fitness clothes.  It creates a smooth seam that can move with the fabric.

It can be used with other fabrics and when sewn with a rolled hem seam, it can create a nice finished edge.

Step 1: Setup the Serger to sew a Rolled Hem with stretch thread

Only one spool of stretch thread is used to sew a rolled hem.  Place the stretch thread on your serger's upper looper (blue) position.

Since this is a three-thread rolled hem stitch, remove the left needle and tighten the screw.

The serger thread tension needs to be adjusted for the rolled hem stitch.  Set the following tension when using stretch serger thread.

• Lower looper (red) – turn to 7.5, which is looser than normal
• Upper looper (blue) – turn to 2, which is tighter than normal
• Right needle (green) – set to 4, which is the normal setting

Set the serger stitch length to 1.5.  If you want a bit more coverage, set your stitch length to 1.

Set the cutting width to 5 or the narrowest cutting width.

Retract the rolled hem selection lever by pulling it towards you.  The finger is retracted and this is what causes the fabric to roll over while stitching.  The overlock stitches usually form over the finger.

The rolled hem shows on a finished garment, so select the thread color you would like to see on the finished garment.  Sometimes, the thread color will match the fabric color or maybe even contrast the fabric color.

NOTE: For this tutorial, a contrasting thread is used so the stitches can be seen.  

STEP 2: PREPARE THE FABRIC to sew THE Lettuce Hem

This lettuce hem must be sewn on stretchy fabrics like a knit.  The stretch in the fabric is what makes the ruffle when it’s sewn. The more stretchy the fabric, the more ruffles will appear.

The fabric should be prepared for the lettuce hem.  Prepare the fabric per your pattern instructions, but plan to trim about 1/4" off of the fabric as the lettuce hem is sewn.  This ensures a clean edge is sewn and overlocked and bits of thread won't stick out.

I am using one layer of t-shirt fabric and contrasting thread for this tutorial.

STEP 3: Sew the Lettuce Hem

Stitch along the edge, trimming about 1/4" from the edge of the fabric.   This cleans the edge up and ensures no bits of thread will stick out when the hem is stitched.

As you are stitching, stretch the fabric from both the front and the back.  The more you stretch, the more wavy the fabric will be.

Start by pulling the fabric from the front so it stretches.  As the fabric comes out of the back of the machine, start pulling from the back also.

Here is the finished lettuce hem.  The fabric has a wave in it after stitching the lettuce hem and the overlock stitch covers the edge nicely.

The short stitches nicely wrap and finish the edge of the fabric, making a pretty lettuce hem.

The photo below shows normal thread (green) and stretch thread (blue) next to each other.

Other Serger Tutorials you may be interested in are:

• Bernina L450/L460 Introduction
• Serging Corners and Securing Seams
• Bernina L450/L460 Threading Instructions
• How to Sew a Napkin