How to Sew a Rolled Hem with a Serger (Serger Rolled Hem)

Sewing a rolled hem with a serger is fast and easy! The rolled hem is created by rolling or turning the raw edge under and stitching a narrow seam with dense stitching to cover the edge of the fabric.

Rolled hems are used in garments and home decor items and have a professional-looking finish. Rolled hems are perfect for replacing a standard fold over hem on kids' clothes, lightweight skirts or blouses, ruffles and scarves.  

The rolled hem is also used on home decor items such as napkins and tablecloths.  Don't miss our Serger Rolled Hem Napkins tutorial to make quick and easy napkins!

This tutorial will show you how to finish a seam using your serger with the 3-thread rolled hem stitch.  A rolled hem stitch on a serger finishes the edge by rolling or turning the raw edge under and then a short overlock stitch finishes the edge.

The serger rolled hem stitch can be stitched with standard serger thread or with a stretch or wooly nylon thread in the upper looper.  This tutorial will show the settings for both as they are different when using the stretch thread.

What is a rolled hem?

A rolled hem is used instead of a standard fold over hem where you fold the fabric twice and stitch.  

The rolled hem with a serger is a very narrow hem that is perfect for hemming lightweight or delicate fabrics like chiffon, lace, and silk.  It can also be used for hemming medium-weight fabrics like rayon or light cotton.

The serger rolled hem is created by retracting the "finger" that the overlock stitches are formed on.  This causes the fabric to roll under as the stitch is formed and then a short, dense overlock stitch covers the edge.

The rolled hem can be made to blend in with the fabric or decorative by using coordinating, contrasting threads or special thread like a stretch thread.

What are the advantages of using a serger to sew a rolled hem?

A rolled hem sewn with a serger is very fast to sew because you don't need to fold and iron the fabric.  

The serger rolled hem provides a professional finish to the sewn item and will keep the fabric from fraying during laundering.

The rolled hem can have various looks by changing the thread color, using stretch thread or a more decorative look such as the lettuce edge.

This is another tutorial in our continuing series of Serger or Overlocker tutorials. 

Learn how to create a perfect rolled hem with a serger by following this tutorial or clicking the link below to our YouTube video tutorial. 

WHAT YOU NEED to sew a rolled hem with a serger

• Serger
• Fabric to Hem
• Serger Thread and/or Serger Stretch Thread

INSTRUCTIONS For a serger rolled hem

This tutorial will show the settings when serging a rolled hem with normal serger thread and with stretch thread. The settings for stretch thread are a little different than the regular thread.

Set up the serger machine for stitching a rolled hem stitch. I have a Bernina L450 overlocker machine so the settings will work for the L450 or L460 machine. 

If you have a different brand overlocker machine, it should have similar settings and adjustments, but you may need to test the settings and make adjustments.

How to Serge a 3-Thread Rolled Hem with Normal Thread

Step 1: Setup the Serger to sew a Rolled Hem with serger thread

Since this is a three-thread rolled hem stitch, remove the left needle and tighten the screw.

The serger thread tension needs to be adjusted for the rolled hem stitch.  Set the following tension when using standard serger thread (see settings for using stretch thread in next section).

• Lower looper (red) – turn to 6 which is looser than normal
• Upper looper (blue) – turn to 3 which is tighter than normal
• Right needle (green) – set to 4 which is the normal setting

Set the serger stitch length to 1.

Set the cutting width to 5 or the narrowest cutting width.

Retract the rolled hem selection lever by pulling it towards you.  The finger is retracted and this is what causes the fabric to roll over while stitching.  The overlock stitches usually form over the finger.

The rolled hem shows on a finished garment, so select the thread color you would like to see on the finished garment.  Sometimes the thread color will match the fabric color or maybe even contrast the fabric color.

NOTE: For this tutorial, a contrasting thread is used so the stitches can be seen.  

STEP 2: PREPARE THE FABRIC FOR THE rolled HEM STITCH

The fabric should be prepared for the hem.  Prepare the fabric per your pattern instructions but plan to trim about 1/4" off of the fabric as the rolled hem is sewn.  This ensures a clean edge is sewn and overlocked and bits of thread won't stick out.

STEP 3: Serge the THE rolled HEM STITCH

Stitch along the edge, trimming about 1/4" from the edge of the fabric.  This cleans the edge up and makes sure there are no bits of thread that will stick out when the hem is stitched.

Note: In the photo above, the fabric was previously stitched with a rolled hem, so the serger is cutting off the previous stitching and stitching another rolled hem.

That's it!  You've serged a rolled hem to finish the hem.

Below is a photo of the finished rolled hem front.

The photo below shows the back of the rolled hem.  If you look at the back closely, you will see the fabric rolled under and the overlock stitch covers the raw edge of the fabric.  The short stitches nicely cover the edge of the fabric.

 

How to Serge a 3-Thread Rolled Hem with Stretch Thread

What is Stretch Thread?

Maxi-Lock Stretch thread is a textured nylon thread that is soft like yarn.  It is used to sew stretchy fabrics like swimwear or fitness clothes.  It creates a smooth seam that can move with the fabric.

It can be used with other fabrics and when sewn with a rolled hem seam, it can create a nice finished edge.

Step 1: Setup the Serger to sew a Rolled Hem with stretch thread

Only one spool of stretch thread is used to sew a rolled hem.  Place the stretch thread on the upper looper (blue) position of your serger.

Since this is a three-thread rolled hem stitch, remove the left needle and tighten the screw.

The serger thread tension needs to be adjusted for the rolled hem stitch.  Set the following tension when using stretch serger thread.

• Lower looper (red) – turn to 7.5 which is looser than normal
• Upper looper (blue) – turn to 2 which is tighter than normal
• Right needle (green) – set to 4 which is the normal setting

Set the serger stitch length to 1.5.  If you want a bit more coverage, set your stitch length to 1.

Set the cutting width to 5 or the narrowest cutting width.

Retract the rolled hem selection lever by pulling it towards you.  The finger is retracted and this is what causes the fabric to roll over while stitching.  The overlock stitches usually form over the finger.

The rolled hem shows on a finished garment, so select the thread color you would like to see on the finished garment.  Sometimes the thread color will match the fabric color or maybe even contrast the fabric color.

NOTE: For this tutorial, a contrasting thread is used so the stitches can be seen.  

STEP 2: PREPARE THE FABRIC FOR THE rolled HEM STITCH

The fabric should be prepared for the hem as specified in the pattern instructions.  Plan to trim about 1/4" off of the fabric as the rolled hem is sewn.  This ensures a clean edge is sewn and overlocked and bits of thread won't stick out.

For this tutorial, I am using a sample piece of muslin and contrasting thread.

STEP 3: Serge the THE rolled HEM STITCH

Stitch along the edge, trimming about 1/4" from the edge of the fabric.  This cleans the edge up and makes sure there are no bits of thread that will stick out when the hem is stitched.

The photo below shows the front of the rolled hem with the blue stretch thread.

The photo below shows the back of the rolled hem with stretch thread.  If you look at the back closely, you will see the fabric rolled under and the overlock stitch covers the raw edge of the fabric. 

The short stitches and stretch thread cover the edge of the fabric.  The stretch thread will fill in the stitches a bit more than the normal serger thread.

Below you can see the normal thread and stretch thread next to each other.

Other Serger Tutorials you may be interested in are:

• Bernina L450/L460 Introduction
• Serging Corners and Securing Seams
• Bernina L450/L460 Threading Instructions
• How to sew a Napkin