How to sew a Lapped Seam for Leather, Fleece, Felt or Suede

Wondering how you hold leather or suede together for sewing? The lapped seam is perfect for this!

Flat felled seams and French seams, as well as mock French seams are lovely seam finishes to hide seam allowances and to protect them from fraying.

There are two ways to sew the lapped seam. See our tutorial on the basic lapped seam used for any fabrics.

Another way to sew the lapped seam which we will discuss here is the very best seam to use on non-fraying fabrics such as leather, suede, fleece and the like.

The finish is clean and flat, reducing the bulk of the seam to only two layers of fabric rather than four.

Learn more about sewing a lapped seam for non-fraying fabrics by watching our video or keep reading this post.

What is a lapped seam?

A lapped seam definition is when one piece of fabric is laid on top of the other with an overlap and a lapped seam is created. With this seam, the fabrics are both sewn with right sides facing up.

When the fabric is overlapped, a nice and thin seam is formed.

WHAT YOU NEED to sew a lapped seam

• Two pieces of fabric
• Threaded sewing machine
• Scissors
• Pins, tape or glue  

instructions for sewing a lapped seam on non-fraying fabric

STEP 1:  mark the seam allowance 

Take both pieces of fabric and place them right sides up. Measure and draw a line where the seam allowance would be. Most seam allowances in bags and garments are 5/8", so mark a line down each fabric 5/8" away from the edge.

If the seam allowance is to be smaller according to the pattern directions, simply measure and draw the line at this lapped seam allowance size.

step 2: cut the seam allowance from one piece of fabric

For fleece, leather, suede and felt fabrics, cut the seam allowance off of the edge of one of the pieces of fabric.

Lay this cut piece of fabric on top of the other piece of fabric at the seam allowance line. Both pieces should be right sides up.

step 3: Pin, tape or glue the two fabrics together

Once the top piece of fabric is lined up on the drawn seam allowance line of the other piece of fabric, it is important to hold it in place for sewing.

Depending on the fabric, pins may be used. For example, when sewing on fleece, felt and suede, feel free to use pins to hold the pieces in place.

However, pins should not be used on leather fabric. When using leather, the choice is tape or glue the two pieces of leather together to prepare for sewing.

step 4: top stitch to make the lapped seam

Take the secured fabrics to the sewing machine. Line the fabric under the needle close to the edge of the lapped fabric.

Note: A contrasting thread is used in the video tutorial to clearly show the stitching. However, contrasting thread or matching thread may be used, depending on the look that is trying to be achieved.

Using the sewing machine, stitch close to the raw edge of the top fabric within the lapped seam allowance. Be sure to back tack at the beginning and end of sewing.

Using the scissors, clip the threads off at the end of the stitching.

The advantage of sewing the lapped seam on fabrics such as leather, suede, fleece or felt is that the seam lies flat and has little bulk in the seam.

The lapped seam is complete.

More seam finishes

• Double stitched seam finish
• Turn and stitch seam
• Pinked seams