How to Sew a Mock French Seam (Faux French Seam)

For those familiar with French seams, they know that these seams, sewn twice to encase the raw edges within the seams, create a very neat, professional-looking seam with no raw edges. 

To see the instructions for a true French seam, click the link to see our tutorial.

A mock French seam looks very similar to a French seam, but the steps to sew a mock French seam are very different, and they are also a bit simpler.  This is why this finishing technique is appealing to beginning sewists. This seam is also called a faux French seam.

What is the difference between a mock French seam (or faux French seam) and a French seam?

A mock French seam has a topstitch that is visible along the edge of the folded seam allowance. The fabrics are sewn right sides together. 

For a mock French seam, after sewing the seam, the raw edges of the seam allowance are folded toward the seam and pressed.  The folded edges are then basted or topstitched together to enclose the raw edges.

This method doesn't provide a finish as professional-looking as the true French seam, but it is an excellent option for sewists who want a neat finish with less work.

On the other hand, a true French seam is made by sewing a seam with the wrong sides of the fabric together and then pressing the seam allowance to one side.  The fabrics are opened with the right sides together, and a seam is sewn, encasing the raw edges within the folded seam.

When would I use a mock French seam or faux French seam?

Many sewists use a mock French seam when the true French seam is difficult to apply, like along curved seam allowance edges.  This stitch can also be used as a last-minute neat finish where the seams have already been sewn with the right sides facing together.

Learn more about sewing a mock French seam or faux French seam by watching our video on YouTube through the link below or keep reading this post.

WHAT YOU NEED to sew a mock French seam

• 2 pieces of fabric
• Threaded sewing machine
• Iron
• Ironing board

How to sew a faux French seam or a mock french seam

STEP 1: Sew a regular seam

Place the two pieces of fabric with the right sides together and sew a regular seam along the edge.

Most seams are 5/8ths inch seams, so that is what was done in this tutorial.

However, this technique can be used for any width seam. Remember to back tack at both ends of the seam.

STEP 2: Press the seam

Open the fabric pieces with the seam facing up.  Press the seam open with the iron.

Next, take each side of the seam allowance and fold it in to touch the seam line itself, and iron again.

Do this for both sides of the seam allowance. 

Press the folded seam allowance closed with the iron. There should be no raw edges visible.

Step 3: Top stitch the mock French seam

Once the seam allowance has been pressed, take it to the sewing machine and neatly top stitch the seam close to the edge, giving this a neat seam with no raw edges visible.

Top stitching should be done close to the folded edge.

step 4: Press the Faux French seam to one side

Open the fabric with the seam side up.  Take this to the ironing board and press the neatly top-stitched seam to one side.

The mock French seam is complete!  This faux French seam is neat and professional looking, with no raw edges of fabric showing, similar to a French seam.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on sewing a mock French seam also known as a faux French seam.

seams and finishing seams

• Flat felled seam
• French seam
• Turn and Stitch seam (clean finished seam)
• Pinked seam