How to Edgestitch

Edgestitching is a type of sewing in which a row of straight stitches is sewn on the right side of the fabric, very close to the edge or seamline of the project.

This type of stitching, edgestitch, is used to hold fabric layers together and to keep the edges of the seam flat. It is basically a type topstitching and is used as a reinforcement stitch as well as a decorative stitch.

What is the difference between edgestitch and topstitch?

The main difference between edgestitching and topstitching is the proximity to the seamline or edge. Where topstitching is done further away from the seamline or edge, usually 1/4 of an inch, edgestitching is done closer to the seamline or edge, typically 1/8 of an inch or less.

What is the difference between edgestitching and understitching?

Understitching, as the name suggests, refers to a stitch that is seen on the underside or back of the garment, rather than on the right side of the fabric.  Unlike edgestitching, it is not used as a decorative stitch, but rather to keep the facing and lining of a garment from rolling to the outside.  

If you would like to learn more about and how to do edgestitching, you can watch our video or continue reading this post.

How to sew an edgestitch 

Before we begin to learn how to edgestitch, let's take a look at the all-purpose (standard) presser foot that  comes with every sewing machine. 

It has an center opening  that allows you to sew straight stitch or zig-zag stitch, a center groove to help you sew straight and two toes, one to hold the fabric down on either side of the needle.

To edgestitch, you can use either the center groove or the inner edges of the toes of the foot as a guide  In this tutorial, I'll show you both methods.

Method #1: Use the Center groove 

For this edgestitch technique, you'll use the center groove of the presser foot as a guide to create the straight edgestitch.

Place the fabric under the presser foot with the right side facing up so the middle groove is about 1/8 inch or less away from the edge of the project or the edge of the seamline.  

Keep your eye on the groove line at all times, and begin stitching slowly, applying gentle and even pressure to the pedal.

Sewing the edgestitching too quickly can lead to messy, uneven stitching. 

Once you're done, the fabric layers will be held together and the edges will lay flat. 

Method #2: Use Presser Foot Toe As Guide

For this edgestitch technique, you'll use the inner edge of the sewing machine presser foot toe to help create the straight edgestitch.

Before edgestitching, press the seam allowance to one side. You will be stitching on top of the seam allowance.

With the right side of the project facing up, place the fabric under the presser foot aligning the inner edge of the presser foot toe with the seamline or edge of the fabric.  

Begin stitching a straight line.  You are essentially sewing 1/8 inch from the seam (or fold). 

As you stitch along the seam,  keep the edge of the presser foot toe aligned with the seam and guide the fabric evenly, always keeping the seam aligned with the inner edge of the toe.  Sew slowly to ensure a neat and tidy edgestitch. 

With this technique, the seam allowance on the underside stays flat.

Edgestitching is a great way to give your project a finished and professional look.

EDGESTITCH TIPS:

• The edgestitching can be done in the same color thread as the fabric or opt to a contrasting color, depending on the desired look.
• Once you create the seam, press it well before beginning the edgestitching.
• Remember edgestitching should be 1/8" or less away from the seamline or edge.

I hope you found this edgestitch tutorial helpful and will try edgestitching in your own sewing projects.

other related stitches

• Understitching
• Topstitching
• Gathering Stitching