This tutorial will demonstrate how to cut and assemble the Louisiana Quilt Block using an Accuquilt Go! cutting system and an Accuquilt Go! Qube.
Did you know that every state has a quilt block? The Louisiana quilt block is a pinwheel style block with four flying geese units. A rectangle is added to the flying geese units to create a four-patch unit. The block is then assembled into a pinwheel style.
This Louisiana state quilt block was first published in Hearth and Home Magazine. In 1907 the publication asked for readers to send in blocks for their home state and published the 48 best patterns. The 50 patterns (including Alaska & Hawaii) were later collected and published into a book,
This tutorial will demonstrate using an Accuquilt Go! Qube and Accuquilt Go! cutter to cut and assemble the free quilt block pattern for the Louisiana state quilt block.
Watch our complete step-by-step video tutorial by clicking the link below or keep reading this photo tutorial.
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WHAT YOU NEED to make a Louisiana State QUILT BLOCK pattern
Find links at the end of this tutorial for links to supplies and the current Accuquilt coupons and discounts!
- Accuquilt Go! Cutter
- Accuquilt Go! Qube - any size - Uses #4, #5 and #8 dies
- Three Fabrics - Light, medium and dark fabric (amounts will vary depending on the number and size of the blocks)
- Sewing Machine
- Scissors, Seam Ripper, Iron and Ironing Board
INSTRUCTIONS FOR cutting and assembling THE Louisiana State quilt BLOCK Pattern
I will demonstrate the Louisiana quilt block pattern by cutting the fabrics with an Accuquilt Go! cutter and dies from a 10” Go! Qube and a 5" Go! Qube. The Louisiana quilt block can be made using any size Go! Qube.
The size of these two blocks will be 10 ½” and 5 ½” square. When they are sewn into a quilt, they will be finished size blocks of 10" and 5".
The Accuquilt Go! cutting system and Qube cut the pieces fast and precisely every time. Using an Accuquilt cutter is an easy way to cut the quarter-square triangles, half-square triangles, and rectangles needed for the Louisiana block.
As a bonus, the Accuquilt dies cut the "dog ears" off of the triangle pieces. So, no need to trim the corners after sewing the triangles together! Using the precision-cut pieces and the ironing tips provided in this tutorial, it's very easy to get matching points.
This free quilt block pattern is included in the 72 Block Patterns PDF that can be downloaded from the Accuquilt website. Scroll to the end of this tutorial for a link to the PDF download.
The Louisiana quilt block pattern page inside the PDF lists the dies, shapes to cut and the fabric requirements for one block. It also provides some basic instructions for assembling the block.
Keep reading this tutorial for more detailed instructions for assembling this Louisiana quilt block.
The Louisiana Quilt Block pattern is also included in the book “Quilt in a Day” Go! Qube, Mix & Match Blocks and Quilts. This book came for free when I purchased my Qube.
CUTTING THE Louisiana quilt BLOCK pieces
This free quilt block pattern tutorial will show photos of the cutting and assembly of a 10" block. Assembly for the 5" block and any other size is identical. The dies for each Go! Qube are appropriately sized to create a Louisiana block in the size of the Accuquilt Qube.
This block uses three dies from any Go! Qube. Use all three dies from one Qube.
From the 10” Qube, it uses:
- #4 – Quarter Square Triangle (5” Finished Square)
- #5 – Half Square Triangle (2-½” Finished Square)
- #8 – Rectangle, 3” x 5-½” (2-½ x 5” finished rectangle)
From the 5” Qube, use these dies:
- #4 – Quarter Square Triangle (2-1/2” Finished Square)
- #5 – Half Square Triangle (1-¼” Finished Square)
- #8 – 3” x 1- ¾” Rectangle (1-¼” x 2 1/2” finished rectangle)
Notice that for the 5" Qube, the half-square triangle die includes eight half-square triangles. So, when making blocks with this size Qube, fewer passes through the cutter are needed to cut the fabric for the blocks.
If you are using another size Qube, the sizes of the squares and triangles will be different. Don’t worry, they are sized to assemble into the final size of your Qube blocks.
STEP 1: PREPARE THE FABRICS FOR THE Louisiana QUILT BLOCK
For one Louisiana Quilt block, three fabrics are needed:
- Light for 4 rectangles
- Medium for 8 half-square triangles
- Dark for 4 quarter square triangles
This Louisiana quilt block tutorial will cut the pieces to make one block of each size (5" and 10" finished quilt blocks). To make more than one block, calculate how many of each shape and fabric color you will need by multiplying the number needed by the number of blocks.
When cutting with an Accuquilt cutter, the fabric can be fan-folded into six layers before cutting. So, if the pattern says 1/8 yard is needed, you may be able to use that 1/8 yard to cut shapes for more than one block.
Always cut the fabric strips 1/2" wider than the width of the die cutting area. The dies are made with two colors of foam so the cutting area is shown. Measure the width of the cutting area and then cut a strip 1/2" wider than that area.
For the Louisiana quilt block pattern, one block requires the following pieces.
Fabrics strips for one block from the 10” Qube
- Quarter Square Triangles - 6 ¾” wide strip by 6 ¾” long from the dark fabric.
- Half Square Triangles - 4” wide strip by 16” long from the medium fabric.
- Rectangles - 6 ½” wide strip by 12” long from the light fabric.
Fabric strips for one block from the 5” Qube
- Quarter Square Triangles - 4 ¼” square from the dark fabric.
- Half Square Triangles - 4 ¾” square from the medium fabric.
- Rectangles - 3 1/2” wide strip by 8” long from the light fabric.
If using quilter’s cotton, up to 6 layers can be cut at once. So, fold that fabric to get what you need with fewer passes through the Accuquilt cutter.
To cut many of the same shapes quickly, cut strips of fabric the width of the die plus 1/2". Then fanfold six layers and cut. Continue fan folding six layers at a time and cutting until the whole strip is cut.
STEP 2: Cut THE FABRICS FOR THE Louisiana QUILT BLOCK
Setup your Accuquilt Go! cutter and plug it in.
#4 Die - Dark Fabric
The #4 die will cut four quarter square triangles at once. Since each Louisiana block uses four quarter square triangles, one layer of fabric is needed for each block.
If you are cutting more than one block, remember to layer up to six layers at once and cut the quarter square triangles needed for six blocks with one pass through the cutter.
Place the piece of dark fabric over the cutting area and make sure the edges extend past the light colored foam.
Place the cutting mat over the fabric and send it through the cutter. To get more use out of your cutting mat, move it around and use both sides so that the cutting scores will be in different places on the cutting mat.
The four quarter-square triangles are cut for one block.
#5 Die – Medium Fabric
The #5 die, will cut two half-square triangles at once. The Louisiana block uses eight half-square triangles for each block.
Fanfold the medium fabric back and forth across the die so there are four layers. This will cut the eight half-square triangles needed for one block.
Place the mat over the fabric and send it through the cutter.
The 8 triangles are cut.
#8 Die – Light Fabric
The last die is the #8 rectangle die. The Louisiana block has four rectangles and this die cuts two rectangles with each pass through the cutter. Fold the strip in half and place it over the die.
Add the mat and send it through the cutter. The 4 rectangles are cut.
That finishes up the cutting of the fabrics needed for the Louisiana block.
STEP 3: SHOW THE BLOCK PIeces
To help with the Louisiana block's assembly, a photo of the block pieces will be shown after each step.
Below is a photo of the 10" block fabric pieces with all of the fabrics in their proper locations.
To assemble the block, the flying geese units will be sewn together first. Then the rectangles are sewn to the flying geese unit forming a four-patch unit. Finally, the four patch units are sewn together into the finished block.
It's time to start sewing this block together.
STEP 4: SEWING MACHINE SETUP
Thread a sewing machine with a neutral thread. A white or cream is recommended to piece blocks together. The bobbin thread should also be a neutral white or cream thread.
Use a quarter-inch piecing foot and have the machine set for a straight stitch at the standard length. If you do not have a quarter-inch foot, be sure to follow the machine markings to sew a quarter-inch seam.
STEP 5: SEW Flying Geese Units
Start sewing the first half of the flying geese units together with the right sides of the fabrics facing together and a 1/4" seam allowance.
I like to have the quarter-square and half-square triangles in stacks by my sewing machine.
I will sew one side of the geese unit and iron the seam open before sewing the second side. Lay the half-square triangle over one side of the quarter-square triangle matching the edges as shown below.
Use the chain piecing technique to sew the half-square triangles to one side of the quarter-square triangles with a quarter-inch seam allowance.
Chain piecing is a technique where you sew a few stitches off the edge of the piece and then start sewing the next one without cutting the thread in between. You will end up with a chain of blocks!
Sew all four half-square triangles to the quarter-square triangles. You will end up with a chain of half-sewn flying geese units.
I have this handy Blade Saver Thread Cutter that holds an old rotary cutter blade and it’s great for cutting apart the chain-pieced blocks.
Iron the flying geese units by pressing the half-square triangles open with the seams going towards the half-square triangle.
Taking care now to iron the seams in the correct direction will help to have perfect points later.
Back at the sewing machine, finish the flying geese unit by sewing the other half-square triangle to the opposite side of the quarter-square triangle. Line up the edges and sew the seams using the chain piecing method.
Return to the ironing board and iron these half-square triangles in the same way with the seam facing towards the half-square triangle.
The photo below shows the back of the finished flying geese unit and the seams are pressed toward the half-square triangles.
The flying geese units are completed.
Below is a photo of the finished flying geese units in the 10” and 5” blocks.
Step 6: Sew on a Rectangle to make Four Patch Blocks
Place the flying geese unit on top of the rectangle with the right sides together. Align all raw edges.
Sometimes my flying geese units are just a bit smaller than the rectangles. In this case, I center the flying geese on the rectangle and still sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. It's usually less than 1/8" smaller, so it can be eased into the block.
Next, sew the rectangle onto the flying geese units with the 1/4" seam allowance. Sew along the side with the point.
I prefer to sew with the flying geese fabric showing. This way, I can be sure to stitch across at the tip of the point. See in the photo below, the seam crosses just at the tip of the quarter square triangle seams.
Take care when stitching across the tip of the point so that you won't lose any of the points in the flying geese unit.
Iron the units with the seam towards the rectangle.
The photos below show the front and back of the finished four-patch units with the seam pressed toward the light fabric.
Note that you can see the whole point of the flying geese unit.
The photo below shows the four-patch units in the block layout. At this point, make sure you have the four sections oriented in the correct directions! The rectangle is towards the outside of each quadrant.
STEP 7: SEW VERTICAL SEAMS
Next, sew the vertical seams together.
If you rotate the two four-patch sections of the bottom half of the block around 90 degrees, you will notice that the four patch blocks can be stacked and then sewn together.
So, stack half of the four-patch units onto the left side and half on the right side to create two stacks as shown in the photo below.
Take these stacks to the sewing machine. Take the top four-patch unit on the right side and flip it onto the top unit on the left side. Sew them together with a seam on the right side of the units.
The seams with the adjoining triangles in the corner will interlock or nest together since the seam allowance was pressed towards the half-square triangles.
What are interlocking seams?
When the seams are pressed in one direction, a little bump appears on the front side of the block at the seam. By pressing the seams in opposite directions these bumps will come up against one another and "interlock" when you put the two seams together. This makes it easier to get matching points and corners since they naturally go together and will stay in place easier even without pins.
Return to the ironing board and iron the seams. Press all of the seams in the same direction. First, set the seam by ironing over it.
Then open the block up and press the seams all in the same direction. I pressed them toward the flying geese unit.
Always press from the front also.
Below is a photo showing the block. The last seam to sew is the horizontal seam.
STEP 8: SEW Horizontal SEAM
One more seam and the block is finished. The seams will interlock again since they were pressed in the same direction. Place the two sections together.
Interlock the triangles in the center and pin the two halves of the block together.
Sew the block together with a 1/4" seam allowance removing the pins as you go.
In order to reduce the bulk where the seams come together, swirl the seams. Here is the first one with the seam swirled.
Notice that the four seams are ironed in a "circle". Mine goes counterclockwise. The direction you have ironed the first two seams for the block will determine if the seams will go clockwise or counterclockwise.
To swirl the seam, remove the stitches in the seam allowance of the vertical seam. Be sure you don’t open the last seam you sewed!
Next, finger-press the seams and the center will open up and swirl. Finger press the seams so that they will go counterclockwise around the block (or clockwise if you pressed the opposite direction originally).
Press the seams with an iron so they go in a counter-clockwise direction. Since the stitches are removed in the center, the seams will lay down flat and “swirl”.
If you try this method, you will notice it’s a lot less bulky which will be easier to sew over when quilting the quilt later.
Give the whole block a good press from the front and back.
Completed Louisiana Quilt Block
Below is a photo of the finished block. It’s nice and flat and the points of the triangles all come together in the center of the block. The bulk has been avoided by using the swirling method.
Below shows the back of the block with the center seam swirled.
We hope you enjoyed learning how to make this Louisiana Quilt Block with an Accuquilt Go! cutting system.
If you have any questions about this project, contact us through the YouTube Video
comments or our Contact Us page. We respond to questions in e-mails and YouTube comments regularly.
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